Ecuador: Shuar Music

Gyro and Ryan jam a little with traditional Shuar music

Ecuador: Dreams, Tears, Laughs and Inspiration with the Shuar

"Live life to live, not for power or money or for immidiate gratification. Live with your heart, with love. I live not for today, or for the next 50 years or for the next hundred years, I don't live for my life, I live for my children, and for my grandchildren and my great grandchildren, and their great grandchildren. I live for the next 1,000, for the next 5,000 years. And I do that by protecting the Amazon, by loving nature, because the Amazon is life." -Tzama

Okay, now for the most impactful experience of our trip so far.  It's hard to try to capture the time we had in words, but we'll try.

After spending two nights in Puyo - a little town that is a launching point for Jungle access - we caught a bus to a small community where we were to meet a person whose name might have been lost in translation. When we met Gyru he was immediately welcoming and sincere.  After a quick introduction we slung on our packs and started walking out to the even smaller Shuar community called Tawasap. Tawasap is one of 18 "front country" communities of the Shuar that have sprung up over the last few years because they have needed to make their presence official with the Ecuadorian government to send children to school and protect their land rights. Up until the construction of the few simple dwellings that make up Tawasap two years ago the Shuar lived spread out in the jungle.  All of the families still have jungle homes as well. Upon arrival Gyru told us to rest for a minute while he put on his traditional garb, a crown of colorful feathers and jaguar skin skirt accessorized with a boa skin and tooth necklace. We then headed up to their sacred mountain called Mura, where we stayed for the week. Mura was built with rock, sand and dirt by the Shuar ancestors as one in a set of high ground hills in an otherwise flat basin of the Amazon.

Ry playing guitar in front of our hut

Our bed: wood planks with a couple blankets on top. We actually slept very well

Once we got our stuff thrown down and had a bowl of a special tea to protect from mosquitoes and immunize us from infection, "muy bien para la sangre", we got our first face painting with the red paste from achiote seeds. Over the next few days we were guided around the close-by areas of the jungle, rested on Mura, and listened to Gyru and Tzama (our host and a leader of the local communities which total about 1,900 people) telling us about their lives, traditions, beliefs, and many of the properties of medicinal plants in the jungle.  They use the plants for all manner of cures, disease prevention, strengthening and cleansing of the body and mind.

Lunch cooking in the kitchen

Tzama offered to prepare a cleansing ritual for us so on Sunday we fasted all day, having only an egg broth in the morning, drinking tea and sucking on sugar cane until the evening. To prepare our bodies that morning we had a "plant bath" of mashed up jungle plants and cold water. Later in the day Tzama explained that the plants we were going to drink were very strong and it wasn't uncommon for people to have their arms or hair turn into snakes during the ceremony, so we were both a little nervous and pretty hungry when dark fell and it was time to begin. Tzama told us that this plant was to reset and enhance our spirit and our energy and that we would receive small doses as first-timers. He guided us through the process, checking on us frequently throughout the night.

We sat and meditated in a dark hut, listening to him play some traditional flute and making other sounds from unidentifiable, yet beautiful sounding instruments.  After a while we were told we could lay down and we both slept on and off for some unknown period of time, listening to the enhances jungle sounds of frogs, cicadas, birds, bats, and watching amazing firefly bugs before we eventually were guided to our bed.  We awoke with more energy in the morning, not even feeling all too hungry after over 24 hours of fasting. Upon debriefing, neither of us noticed a significant effect, but the experience was amazing and led to a lot of reflection.

Anne chilling on the top floor looking out west towards the Andes

Gyru jamming and an Anaconda skin drum

Over the next two days we hung out with Tzama's family, eating their delicious food, playing card games or soccer with the kids, jamming with Gyru, and swimming in the river in between relaxing naps and reading time. Tzama himself was called away last minute to a reunion of the leaders of the local Shuar communities because they are currently dealing with some difficult times.

While we were there they got news from government officials that their piece of jungle that they have lived on for countless generations was next up on the government's list of places to greenlight for oil extraction.  The highly publicized issue here in Ecuador is President Correa changing position back in August and saying that the government was going to have to allow the exploitation of the Yasuni wilderness area for oil. What has not been highly publicized, and what the Shuar were told last week, is that they are plan B if the Yasuni are able to block the oil extraction from their national park. The Shuar and the Yasuni met multiple times last week to discuss how they will work together to protect both their territories peacefully, realizing that they are stronger together than alone.

This was all very sad and very wrenching experience for us as we were acutely aware of our privilege and the impact that our modern society's addiction to oil is having, not only on climate change globally, but on people locally.  In one sad moment Tzama said to us as we were staring into the fire, "We are losing our culture, we are losing the jungle, we are losing everything."

Anne, Shiram (the baby monkey), and the two youngest of Tzama's kids, Tamya and Naikim

It was also a unique experience for us as the income disparity was brought up so many times. One step to protecting their land is to have a complete survey done, that was estimated at costing $1,700. Three hundred community leaders came together last week to give anything they could to pay for it and it totaled a little over $300.  Although we had already given one donation we felt compelled to take a day to bus back into town to an ATM to contribute more.  The sacrifice for us and the hit to our travel budget seemed minuscule compared to the sacrifices the Shuar will have to make if they can't block the exploitation of their piece of the jungle. We have been dreaming up ideas for giving additional help so stay tuned because we may be reaching out to our networks--and if you have ideas, please let us know!

Despite these problems, it is truly incredible how happy and healthy the community is. They live off the jungle and don't go wanting for food or healthcare, drawing on the ancestral knowledge of their culture.  We had many greatly profound conversations with Tzama about life, the human spirit, the importance of a connection with nature, and general happiness.

Tzama when his wife told him to smile: "Maria, when have you ever seen a tiger smile?"

Face paint: Ryan's is an anaconda design and Anne's is a sun goddess

The morning we left was the most beautiful of the week. We started the day with two snorts of tobacco--the fresh tobacco leaf is mashed up and the squeezed into our hands so we can literally snort to green liquid,  it clears the sinuses, and gives you a jolt of energy for the day--which was not too shortly followed by a round of vomiting on both our behalf (which is your body ridding itself of bad energies or excess energies it does not want). After we did in fact feel amazing and truly energized. Tzama had many beautiful and hopeful words to say that morning, both about life in general and the Shuar and Yasuni's situation with the petrol companies and the government.

We left feeling very energized and frankly blown away by the generosity of the family.  We got gifts from the adults and children alike, including a handmade kalimba, a vile of rare orchid oil to heal our feet and allow us to absorb the earth's energy when we walk barefoot, and the necklace and bracelet straight from Tzama's own neck and wrist. They even offered to help us build our own hut so we could live with them for a few years (VERY tempting!). It was truly an unforgettable experience. We know we have family in the Amazon, and we are ever grateful to Tzama and his beautful family for the experience we had.

Sangay Volcano at sunset

Ecuador: Mama Tungurahua and Baños

Tunguarhua at sunset

After Saraswati we decided to take some time to relax before our next journey so where else would we go but back to Baños! What a time to be here! First of all, the nearby volcano Tunguragua was active and the weekend held the local fiesta de la virgen so there were fireworks, parades, and live music going on day and night.

Procession for la Virgen

Fireworks over the Basilica

Beautiful Rainbow 

We took an amazing hike on Saturday in which we walked up above the town to the statue of the Virgen, and then stopped at the Cafe del Cielo before climbing up through farmland  to a great view of the volcano so we could eat our shrimp and rice. We heard and felt the volcano exploding and then watched the huge column of smoke climb out of the top of the mountain. After taking tons of photos and being in awe for some time we hitched on the back of a tow truck down the hill at sunset. All in all it was a great day and awesome experience. We tried to get up to a viewpoint to see the lava at night over the next few days but is was always cloudy (boo!).

Ryan and the view from la Virgen

Anne and the view of Banos

Just after we heard a rumbling from Tungurahua

Ecuador: Making Chocolate

Roasted Cacao

Ever wondered how chocolate is made? We did, and we actually had the chance to do it at the Saraswati farm! We didn't actually participate in the harvesting or the drying and fermenting part of the process, but the cacao beans came from the farm and we roasted there in a big pan.

peeling off the shells of the cacao beans with Melissa and Belen

Then it was our job to peel the shells off the beans, which is harder than it seemed and left many people with cut and bloody fingertips. Once they were peeled we mistakenly started grinding them, even though we didn't need to.

Grinding the beans. . . Oops!

Belen "juicing" the cacao

Melissa and Anne doing something. . .

Then we fired up the juicer machine, and added in some tasty manteca and watched the chocolate paste flow. We then started peeling again and went back to the grinder to make some peanut chunks. Again we got ahead of ourselves and started spreading out the chocolate for cooling without adding sugar (oops). Once that was fixed we spread out the chocolate with peanuts in little molds and let it cool.

Turns out  it was totally delicious even though all that work turned out to make only a few chocolates!

Sooooo worth it!

Ecuador: Saraswati Ahimsa Vana

We were dropped off at “the monkey,” the sign for the farm Saraswati Ahimsa Vana, Thursday, October 10th, in the afternoon around 2. We had already eaten a highly suspicious Menu del Dia before we left Tena, a last taste of questionable meat before we took on the vegetarian diet. When we arrived lunch, or Prasadam, was about to start and we were invited to sit down on woven straw mats to eat our second lunch in a circle on the ground with the community. There were a quite a few volunteers, some more permanent than others, from Venezuala, Colombia, Argentina, Germany, Iceland and the U.S.. We got to meet them all as they trickled in throughout the day from various activities around the farm and in town.

Prasadam

That night we made Melcocha, taffy made out of sugarcane they had harvested and squeezed that morning. The sugarcane is cooked until it is hot and liquidy, then it is taken off the oven and cooled only a little before you start a long process of massaging and pulling the taffy until it turns from dark brown to white and is hard, stretchy, and, well, the consistency of a harder taffy. Ryan’s somehow became more liquidy, no one knew how.

Every night before dinner and morning before breakfast there was Bhatki Yoga, mantra chanting as a way of meditation, and then someone read from the Bhagavad Gita and spoke about its meaning for them and led a discussion or gave a lesson. Cooking was also a way of meditation, and so cooks did not taste the food as they made it, and before dinner was served an offering of the best parts of each course of the meal was put in a cupboard as the offerer rang a bell and recited mantras. It was extremely interesting learning this practice and getting to share with this community. Not all the community participated in the practices, but all were respectful and interested in learning and sharing who they were.

Each morning we awoke to the chanting of the mantras, Bhatki Yoga, at 5:30. Latecomers’ footsteps could be heard above and around us as they awoke and joined in the chanting on the deck above the hammocks.

Yoga Deck

It was a beautiful natural alarm clock that inspired a final set of dreams before we got up for Hatha Yoga around 6:30. By then the sun was barely up, the temperature was welcoming, and the birds sang for us while we stretched with their own unique chants. On especially lucky mornings when Gopal would bake, the smell of fresh bread would waft up to us.

After Yoga, breakfast was served-usually some kind of homemade yogurt, lots of fruits, and a starch, as well as hot mystery tea- and we learned what kind of work we would be doing for the day. The work varied, from cooking lunch for everyone, spreading compost around the plants, clearing leaves off the paths or collecting and then distributing sawdust on the trails. Ryan spent two days mixing and spreading a delicate mixture of caca de vaca, sand, clay and yucca paste on the walls of Bhaga’s house on the property. I had an opportunity to do a little poop spreading, and it was actually pretty fun, despite the fact that your hands smell for the rest of the day, no matter how many times your scrub them with soap and water. “La casa de mis suenos es hecha de mierda” got stuck in my head after only an hour on the job.

the dining room and volunteer hang-out space

Saraswati was just starting a project with the school in Talag to bring in volunteers for an hour a day, two days a week, primarily to teach students about recycling and secondarily to get them at least a little acquainted with the English language and foreigners. I was able to go on Wednesday with Varsana and Belen. We talked about biodegradable materials, why we recycle, and I taught the students how to say “worm,” “plant,” “dog” and “bottle” in English. Once we handed out worksheets and the kids had colored pencils in their hands the class became unruly, but we had a lot of fun and I think they may have learned something.

All told it was a wonderful week full of inspiring spiritual conversation, great food, fun people from all over the world, and the most immersion in Spanish than we’ve had yet!

The view on the way to Wisdom Forest

Ecuador: A Short Update

We have been staying since last week at an Eco-reserve outside of Tena. The group that runs it practice Bahtki yoga so we've had plenty of morning mantra chanting and vegetarian food. It has been a really fun experience learning about their beliefs and more about the permaculture they practice on the land. It is a beautiful set up and we've been able to speak a lot of Spanish! We'll be here for another few days and then will post in more detail with better photos.

Ecuador: Off to Volunteer

Today we're going to Wisdom Forest ( www.wisdomforest.org ), on the edge of the Amazon, to volunteer, practice yoga and learn about jungle permaculture, how to make chocolate, and many other amazing things. We go with open minds to see what we can learn and enjoy the experience!

Here's a view of Tena from the kitchen of our hostel. Now we're off to Wisdom Forest!

Ecuador: 16,000 to Sea Level

From 16,000 feet on Cotopaxi to the beaches of Canoa, the last ten days have been a whirlwind of adventure.

Overlooking the Refugio Jose F. Ribas and a stinted view of Cotopaxi, with Volcan Antisana in the distance

You may be curious about the photo of the cow carcass that was posted earlier. . .  a cow ate too much clover and died in the night on the Chiriboga farm a few days ago. Since it died from natural causes the owners were able to sell the meat for salchichas. So watch out when you eat those hot dogs! The same morning 5 cute little puppies were born.

Cotopaxi

One beautiful Saturday Connie, Victoria, Sofia and Mercedes' girls hopped in the car for Cotopaxi. The sky was clear and beautiful this time, so Ryan and I were able to hike to the refugio where serious climbers stop to make their ascent of the beautiful volcano.

A Panorama on Puente San Francisco, Banos

Enjoying the Thermal Baths in Banos

The next day we left for Banos de la Agua Santa at the base of Volcan Tungurahua, known for its thermal baths, beautiful waterfalls and amazing landscape. We spent a few days there just relaxing and enjoying the hot baths, and our last full day we biked roughly 40km, from Banos to Mera, a small town at the edge of the Amazon. The road paralleled a lush green canyon with gushing waterfalls including la Cascada el Pailon del Diablo.

The canyon along our bike ride

Overlooking the Amazon and Mera

From there we returned back to Machachi for the night and the next morning Victoria took us to Canoa, a beautiful beach town. We spent 4 days lounging on the beach at Hotel Bambu, reading, having fun with Sofia and Victoria, and reading some more. Yesterday we arrived in Manta for a quick look at that coastal Port town. We were packed in to a bus for a short 2 hour ride, and three buses later and a lot of faith put in to the ayudantes, we arrived at our destintion. Along the way we were surprised to see the girl smashed between us was carrying two baby chicks in a black plastic bag. It was only less surprising because the woman across from me had a love bird named Loco perched on her chest. This would be why they are called chicken buses I suppose!

Ceviche Mixta, so yummy!

On the beach in Canoa

Bringing a fish to the Market in Playa Turqui, Manta

After roaming the morning fish market on Playa Tarqui  today we hopped on a bus for Puerto Lopez and here we are!